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May 12, 2015

Protechwood – Deciding upon and Implementing the Finish (Element Three)

Here are some of the most frequently employed home furnishings woods with recommended finishes for each. With the components described previously mentioned and the guidelines described listed here, you can operate out many finishes of your have.

Walnut

Tough and porous, walnut normally needs filler for a clean end. However, if you would like the texture to demonstrate, get rid of the filler.

For a natural end, blend natural wood filler with a tiny burnt umber. Fill the wood, sand frivolously, and end with two coats of drinking water-white lacquer.

For an antique gray bleached end, initially bleach the wood (use any commercial bleach accessible for woods), sand right until the natural shade displays, then use gray filler. Finish with a coat of lacquer or varnish.

For a stain end, use the stain, fill the area of the wood with wood filler that matches the stain, and end with varnish or lacquer.

Mahogany.

There are a variety of types and grades of mahogany. The most typical is Philippine mahogany, which is softer than other types, spongy in texture, and big-pored. All require filler for a clean area.

Oil or wax generates the best natural end.

Substantially contemporary home furnishings is created of bleached mahogany. Bleach, clean extensively with drinking water, and sand right until the natural pink of the wood displays via. Fill with natural wood filler, and end with obvious lacquer.

Mahogany is stained extra frequently than it is still left natural. Implement the stain, fill, and end with varnish or lacquer.

Oak.

Powerful and long lasting, oak has big pores that require two coats of filler for a clean end.

A natural end needs filler and a drinking water-white lacquer end. To soften the yellow forged, use somewhat gray filler.

Two of the most frequently employed stain finishes are golden oak and fumed oak. Golden oak may perhaps be accomplished by applying golden oak stain, filling with light brown filler, and finishing with varnish or lacquer. The ensuing shade will be yellow with dark brown stuffed grain.

Fumed oak generates an orange-brown shade identical to the shade in most oak hardwood flooring. Genuine fumed oak is created by exposing the wood to ammonia fumes. No undertaking for an novice, it can be duplicated by applying Adam brown stain, then a dark brown filler. Sand, then end with varnish or lacquer.

A identical but darker end, like early English oak, is acquired by mixing Adam brown with about one/ten aspect black stain. Implement a clean coat of shellac, fill with black filler, and end with varnish or lacquer.

Maple, Birch, Gum.

These woods have enough characteristics in typical that their finishes may perhaps be regarded with each other. Maple and birch are incredibly challenging, non-porous woods. Gum is non-porous, but is not as challenging. It is generally darker than possibly maple or birch and need to be bleached in order to get hold of as light a end. Maple and birch are hardly ever bleached. None of these woods needs a filler.

Any of the natural finishes operate well on any of these woods. Gum has significantly less character than possibly of the other two and generally is employed to imitate some of the extra costly woods.

All of these woods acquire stains well. You can create many of the traditional time period home furnishings colours on any of them. Right before applying the stain, give these woods a clean coat of shellac, created by thinning one particular aspect of the white shellac with five parts of liquor. Then stain and end with varnish or lacquer.

Pine.

About the only softwood that has a incredibly high price in home furnishings pine is a shut-grained wood that needs no filler.

To end pine in a approximately natural shade, use a coat of lacquer sanding sealer, sand extensively, and end with lacquer or varnish.

Pine will acquire all of the stains that operate well with maple, birch, and gum. If you intend to disguise it with a stain, it is a very good strategy to use a clean coat of shellac in advance of staining, sand well, stain, use lacquer sanding sealer, sand, and lacquer.

Teak.

Extremely porous, rather challenging, and incredibly long lasting, teak needs two purposes of filler to attain a glass-clean end. If you would like to retain some of the porous texture of the wood, use only one particular application.

Given that teak is about the shade of nutmeg, it is hardly ever bleached. When it becomes damp, fibers of the wood swell, building the area incredibly hard. To get rid of the chance of a rough area end, sponge the wood with hot drinking water in advance of you use any end. Permit the area to dry, and then sand with No. seven/ sandpaper. Dust or vacuum extensively. Then use your end components.

Never ever use shellac or any other sealer on teak. The natural oils of the wood are not compatible with shellac gums.

For a natural end, use drinking water-white lacquer or oil.

Source by Protechwood

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